Batumi
White, White
Batumi.
You rise, shake off flint grey
Pebble sounds.
A shoreline of blue heartbeats that pause, skip,
Genuflect
to the majesty of
Your mountains,
A white spine upon which
You rest.
Do Priests
bathe on their way to church?
‘Only God Can Judge Me’
Declares the
tattoo across the
Back of the
man who
Stands between two pebble shores.
Stands between two pebble shores.
Flesh sears and the folding skin.
Signs of
excess roll down
Sit,
Paunchy atop tight red shorts.
Sit,
Paunchy atop tight red shorts.
Incense
burning saints command attention but flinch
As shoulder
blades burn,
and crave the cool dark interior of their
Cavernous vestments.
and crave the cool dark interior of their
Cavernous vestments.
I have only
ever had negative experiences of priests in Georgia. Both directly and indirectly. I only have to think about the
10,000 black flocked men who converged
on 50 LGBT people who were marking the
International Day against Homophobia May 17 2012 to shake my head in disbelief.
I was not there but some of my friends were and their personal stories are
harrowing. It came down to one of two things for the women that day. If they
could not escape they knew they would be either killed or raped. The ‘sin’ of homosexuality is an entirely
western concept apparently, and one that has been invented by NGO groups in
order to allow them to apply for funding. A lot of people are getting rich, I
have been told, on the insidious cankerous lies perpetuated by Europe. There are no homosexuals in Georgia. Just as there are no issues around domestic violence.
This is another NGO myth perpetuated by Europhiles in order to get money for nothing.
On a
personal level my relationship with the Georgian Orthodox church is based on hours of conversations with so called Georgian ‘intellectuals’
with good English, or through interpreters or translators. On my most recent trip I was shown around the Martvili Monastery by a kind hearted priest who
proudly told me that ‘nothing has changed since the birth of Christ’ in his monastery or indeed in all
the churches in Georgia. The ‘traditions are kept sacred – nothing has changed’ this crinkle eyed walnut brown faced priest reassured me. This was only after one of the numerous women, head bowed and tutting had wrapped a blue scarf around my already trouser'd hips, presumably so as not to offend the priest with any hint or suggestion that I have a vagina. A kind man this priest was, and one who looked on me with pity disguised by attempts at empathy. He was very good at that and almost had me convinced. All this happened whilst checking a gold rolex watch,
waving at his fellow priests who were driving the latest jeep and peering into the screen on his updated mobile phone.
Black garbed women swept floors
behind him with brooms made from twigs.
This man on
the Batumi Shore line, covered in religious tattoos got me thinking about my
own tattoo.
I have one
on the back of my neck. It is the ancient Sanskrit symbol for Peace. It is
directly linked to the third eye which is the second chakra point between the eyes
that, when opened, allows a spiritual seeing. The nerve endings between these
two places are linked so by having the tattoo placed there it was always my intention that any Reiki that flows through me will be make me a channel of peace. I waited until I was 40 before having it
done. It is a powerful but subtle statement that is, I guess, easily hidden by
my hair much like the images of the saints on the man’s shoulder blades are
hidden when he is dressed.
When I first
met him, the man I continually felt was lurking in the shadows and watching me
even on a hot pebble beach in Batumi, he was frightened of it, my tattoo. He
was also frightened of my power as a woman, and did not know how to deal with my
independence. He quickly began to try to
undermine it. He spent hours, usually
when I was completely exhausted with the day to day organisation of the tours
for his choir, explaining all about God.
How the church worked, how the holy fire worked, how people are called to the cause,
how they are asked to make sacrifices, how he felt his mission was to bring
Georgian Folk song back to Georgian people, how he wanted his own name to be
remembered for all time for bringing this folk lore back to Georgia. Hours he talked,
hours and hours in surprisingly articulate English. He had a great vocabulary
and was hungry to learn more. His
favourite word was ‘rubbish’ which he started to use when referring to me and
everything I did that was not directly
linked to his cause. Allegedly the great grand son of the patriarch who ruled Georgia during the time of Stalin's purges, he told me on two separate occasions that the Georgian
Church taught that there could be only
one chance to move into the light of the true faith and that it was not
in their habit to put pressure on anyone to convert. I remember thinking that
if this was not pressure I would hate to experience it when it was.
I resisted.
I am not into controlling people and felt an uneasiness that I could not, at
that time, give words to. My interest
was in Celtic paganism and I recognised
and was impressed with the ancient connections the Georgian orthodox church, their
use of ritual, of crystals, of food, of chants, of songs using pre-Christian
words that had been lost in time but had lost no power, had with the ancient
Celtic faith. I was interested in the
power of nature and how that had been incorporated into the Christian ritual
and above all I was fascinated by his powerful rhetoric. I recognised on many
levels that he was obsessive, almost sociopathic in his ability to charm
others, including me.
Lying on
that beach, under that umbrella, I was struck by how easily things can be
covered up. The man in the tight red shorts, he could disguise, could charm,
could seem reasonable whilst wearing a shirt, or a suit or a cassock but there,
right across his back, not where he could see it but where everyone else could,
was his ego, his protection and his excuse.
‘Only God
can Judge Me’
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